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The 18th at Corales

Christopher Columbus discovered “The New World” now known as the Dominican Republic in 1492.  I discovered it briefly in 1993.  In 2010, I rediscovered that premier golf is blooming there.  You should too!  In fact, now the golf and accommodations in the Dominican Republic rivals most anything we enjoy in the States – the new golfing jewels of Latin America.

When I first visited the Dominican Republic in 1993, there was precious little in the way of golf courses to choose from other than three very good layouts in the La Romana area east of the capital of Santa Domingo.   Now the nations boasts approximately thirty golf courses designed by the likes of Pete and P.B. Dye, Jack Nicklaus, Tom Fazio, Robert Trent Jones, Jr., Nick Faldo, and others.  Nowhere else in the Caribbean will you find a line-up of designers or golf courses like that.

My impression on that first trip to the luxurious Casa de Campo Resort was then of the Dominican Republic being very much a ‘third-world” experience.  Driving to the wonderful resort from Santo Domingo I then encountered broken down cars, filth, and poverty at every turn.  Returning to the country in March, the transformation has been remarkable.  I experienced better roads, newer cars, and luxury that would pamper the most discriminating tastes.  I felt comfortable and safe with my friendly Dominican hosts.

The Dominican Republic occupies the eastern two-thirds (a little more than twice the size of New Hampshire) of the island that also is home to Haiti.  It is an island of contrasts.  Whereas Haiti has been corrupt, poor, and recently ravaged by earthquake, the Dominican Republic has a stable forward-looking democracy that is prospering and growing with tourism and golf resorts.  They have succeeded in attracting not only American and Canadian investors, but South American and European ones as well.

So how about the golf?  I didn’t play all the courses in the Dominican Republic – yet.  That said, I have played eight very good layouts including some truly world-class ones.  No longer must you fly into Santo Domingo and endure a long trip to your destination.  Now you can fly into modern airports only a couple of minutes from your lodging, beaches, and resorts.  It is also reassuring to learn that there are no poisonous snakes or insects, or no large animals there, only bunkers, trees, and water hazards to threaten you.

First I revisited “Teeth of the Dog Course” at Casa de Campo on the southern coast near La Romana.  I will be featuring a more in-depth article about this favorite, but suffice it to say that it remains truly the “Gem of the Caribbean” and one of Pete Dye’s most enduring designs.  He has been very active in the area also designing the Links Course, and his newest area design “Dye Fore.”  The Dye Fore golf course is built on a grand scale with huge tumbling manicured fairways and bright white imposing bunkers.  It offers dramatic elevation changes and on many holes you look down hundreds of feet to the river valley where the helicopter scenes from the Vietnam War movie “Apocalypse Now” were filmed. And just a few minutes from Casa de Campo is a P.B. Dye-design called La Estancia Golf Resort that is built on a similar grand scale with impressive views akin to the Dye Fore Golf Course.

Parts of Apocalyse Now were filmed in this river adjacent to the dramatic Dye Fore Course.

The area where the most new resort building has occurred is Punta Cana on the Eastern shore.  It features the world’s largest privately owned airport where reportedly more than eighty flights depart a day.  While there are a host of golf courses in the vicinity, included are Latin America’s two best golf courses that are located within ten miles of one another – Punta Espada and Corales.

Corales is a Tom Fazio Signature Design that is certain to evolve into what I call a “Bucket List” golf experience.  The course is highly exclusive, yet accessible provided you stay at their luxurious resort or can waggle an invitation from a member.  You definitely should try.  This is one of the true garden spot golf courses in the tradition of Augusta National – perhaps it will evolve into the “Augusta National of Latin America.”  There are an amazing 240 acres of expertly manicured green turf while the property encompasses even more land.  The Frank Rainieri Family lovingly cares for this property and has succeeded in attracting one of America’s premier golf professionals, Jay Overton, to be, as he tells it, “the eyes and ears of Corales.”

Mr. Rainieri, along with designer Tom Fazio, have crafted an understated ambiance that is sure to exceed the expectations of the most discriminating golfers on the planet, be they skilled players or novices.  There is a relaxed elegance to the experience as you marvel at the undulating manicured wide-open tropical vistas before finishing by the crashing waves and blow holes that adjoin the last three holes of each nine.  Fazio arranged the routing so that the ocean borders the golfer on the left-hand side on the outgoing nine, and the right-hand side on the incoming one.  Two of the holes have alternate greens while the 17^th hole can be played from two different directions.  And don’t worry.  You will likely be able to play both versions of the 17^th as you are not pressed for time at Corales.  They typically limit play to forty players daily and space them at 15-minute intervals.  Challenge-wise, the layout is eminently fair and flexible, easy enough for the average player with the generous landing areas, but very challenging to clip shots off of par for the accomplished because of the tee variations and challenging greensites.  If you collect golf experiences as I do, Corales will become a prized possession on your memory shelf – and you may never want to leave.

Less than ten miles from Corales is Cap Cana’s Punta Espada Golf Course, a Jack Nicklaus Signature Design.  Punta Espada is more than the “Pebble Beach of the Caribbean,” it’s “Pebble Beach on Steroids.”  Unlike Teeth of the Dog where the lush vegetation hides the views of the ocean, here there are big wide-open vistas that tease, tranquilize, and titillate the golfers.  That said you don’t have to wait long to experience the Caribbean.   As you tee off the elevated first tee perched atop limestone cliffs, you enjoy striking ocean vistas to your right.  From the elevated second tee, Nicklaus directs you squarely at the ocean on this intimidating par-five.  By the time you reach the second green, you are likely totally distracted by the beauty of the water that surrounds you on three sides.  Then the entire third hole hugs the ocean to the right.  Nicklaus knows that every great layout has an ebb and flow of anticipation so he then takes you inland over some higher ground for an interlude of some very interesting holes.

With the second nine, you again begin just a fairway across from the pounding surf (and yes, the surf pounds close enough to almost hit you with spray).  As soon as the 13^th and 14^th holes you are again hugging the ocean, only this time to your left.  And at 250 yards, the 14^th hole is an absurdly difficult, perhaps the most difficult hole you might ever face.  Even the pros don’t play the tips here.  From the other tees, it is almost the same.   After another inland interlude, you again visit the ocean beyond the par-three 16^th putting surface before heading home with two par-fours with the ocean only steps off the right sides of the fairways.

Of the hundred or so Nicklaus courses I’ve played, this is one of his very best and compares very favorably to Mexico’s Cabo del Sol.  It has an easy, “resorty” feel, but there is plenty of trouble to avoid.  Catering to the resort play, the putting surfaces are relatively flat, but still have enough undulation to be interesting.  What’s more, the conditioning is immaculate and the greens are as true as any I’ve ever stepped upon.  At Punta Espada, you should make putts and you will have a terrific time!

A drive north up the coast from Punta Cana is another course worth mentioning, the Roco Ki Golf Club.  While I cannot imagine anyone not being completely thrilled playing Teeth of the Dog, Corales, or Punta Espada, you will either like or hate the Roco Ki experience.  What’s more, the massive hotel built to eventually serve the course is currently stalled midway in construction with financial problems, and the future of the course may be in doubt.  So why did I mention Roco Ki?

The short little 17th at Roco Ki ranks with the world's best par-threes!

Roco Ki has one of the most spectacular little holes on earth, the 17^th.  Playing from an elevated tee, it plays just over a hundred yards to green perched high on the cliffs overlooking the ocean far below.  Though lower than the tee, the putting surface is also situated high up on a little peninsula and it is reminiscent of the 7^th at Pebble Beach, but easily more visually spectacular!  The 18^th is also similarly striking, but the vista is marred by the massive hotel that hugs and forms the backdrop to the green.

Roco Ki more than any of the other Dominican Republic layouts I’ve played looks and plays like a championship test.  However, as such, the average golfer will lose golf balls, plenty of them.  The firm fairways often tend to repel shots into the adjoining jungle and there is wispy native vegetation surrounding many of the bunkers that will also gobble up your golf balls- it did mine.

While the visual highlights to Roco Ki are the areas of the first hole, second tee, 16^th green, and last two holes, the rest of the course is still very attractive.  What is a shame is that Faldo was not able to use more of the abundant ocean frontage as his counterparts, Dye, Fazio, and Nicklaus were afforded on the aforementioned properties.   I enjoyed and would not have wanted to miss playing Roco Ki, and if you are a serious, skilled player, you should too.  That said, I fear that many golfers will not venture out for a second round there as the course is just a bit too severe a challenge for most.

If that is not enough, P.B. Dye’s Puntacana Resort & Club is yet another fun course situated convenient to Punta Cana airport and hotels.  Called the La Cana Course, it features flat, wide fairways, and bold contoured greensites with moguls and bold bunkering.  It also takes advantage of its spectacular location to test you with three breathtaking holes adjoining the ocean.  While not quite as spectacular or polished as the others mentioned, it nonetheless is very much worth playing.

The par-5 18th at La Cana.

I have been told that the above courses form the best of the Dominican Republic, but I can assure you that there are still others you will want to play, and I hope to return and bring you more information on them.  Your task, and let me assure you, your pleasure will be for you to now follow Christopher Columbus and discover the warm, friendly sunny Dominican Republic, a new true golfing destination!